Ecoflex 00-20 patch and seam

Hi! I'm new to this world, I've always been a fan and wanted to try my hands at it for the first time.

So, I'm actually learning my way through many online courses here.  I've done the 3 courses that Immortal Masks made and I'm now learning the patching and seaming. The thing is: I want to use Ecoflex 00-20, like immortal do, but in the patching and seaming class, they are using Platsil gel. So they don't explain what to use if you cast your first mask with ecoflex 00-20.
So my question is:
Is there a plasticizer / deadener to add to the ecoflex 00-20 part A you kept for the patch and seam step. To my understanding: you have to mix part A + deadener with part B and then add ure-fil 9 to thicken the mix to a peanut butter consistency. I just can't seam to find the plasticizer / deadener info and ratio?

Also in the patch and seam class, they are talking about a Psychopaint coat to bond the initial cast to the patch. Is this something you have to do with Ecoflex too?

Since this is a crucial step in the finishing process, I want to have all the information I need to avoid waste haha
Anybody can put me in the right direction?
Thanks a lot


  • Hi @MaxLevL - here's some advice from Patching & Seaming master Chris Grossnickle:

    Ecoflex is awesome and a completely different animal when it comes to running skins and patching, but when mastered it's great, especially for a quick fix. However, it is temperamental and you need to do certain things when using it.

    There is no deadener, that's the cool thing about Ecoflex 20, it has oil already in it. But this fact can contribute to pain if you don't do certain things.

    You do not need a Psycho Paint seal.

    If you run this material it should be patched within a day for good bonding. W
    hen you go to patch you're going to want to add URE-FIL 9, which is cabosil, but works a little better for Ecoflex 20 and is also a Smooth-On product. Ecoflex 20 is extremely thin and watery and you MUST get it thick enough to sculpt with and patch. If you can't sculpt with it and move the patch around without it running on you there isn't enough cabosil in it.

    Also, don't waste material but you need usually a 5 to 5 batch at minimum for patching with this material. If you go less the material sets off faster and is harder to work with.

    There are also very important things you have to do when running this material in a mold. Just use soap and water, Palmolive preferably for release. And it should be 70/30, 70% alcohol to 30% soap, 1 layer and buff out the residue.

    Let me know if you have any more questions. Lots of info on this material and easy to screw up. - Chris
  • Wow thanks for the elaborate answer! 

    If I may ask (my English isn't that good). What exactly do you mean by this?

    " you need usually a 5 to 5 batch at minimum "

    Thanks a lot for your help
  • Hey @MaxLevL- Here's what Chris has to say about that follow-up question (and some additional important guidance for you):

    "5 to 5 batch" means 5 grams A, 5 grams B.

    So here's the thing with Ecoflex in general: it is the most temperamental platinum silicone I have worked with but when successful the material will make you happy with its durability and soft stretching properties.

    Another thing, and this is so important: Going back to the 30% soap and 70% alcohol mix that you release the surface of your mold with, excessive release when using Ecoflex inhibits the surface of the Ecoflex more so than any other platinum silicone I have ever used. I know what you're thinking, how do I know if I have enough release on the surface so my Ecoflex skin doesn't bond to the mold surface and how do I know I have buffed out the release enough so it doesn't inhibit the Ecoflex? Well, my friend, you must test on a smaller mold or surface so you get the kinks out before you waste material and time on something that won't work. When the Ecoflex is inhibited there will be a very sticky tackiness to the skin.

    If the inhibition is minor there are ways to still use this skin. Smooth-On makes a product called Inhibit X that you spray through a spray gun or airbrush and it seals the surface and blocks more oil from leeching to the surface of the material which will make any paint you put on rub right off. We use this method a lot and you will probably have to do this as well in the beginning and from time to time until you get the release process perfected. This will allow you to have slightly inhibited skins and still use and paint them.

    The final thing is the cleaning process of the skin after you take it out of the mold. It has to be cleaned with your hands and soap and water (Palmolive soap again), followed by alcohol and again use hands and rub all over to clean the surface. To paint you're going to use Sil-Poxy thinned down or Shin-Etsu thinned down. Must give this process at least 12 hours to dry!

  • edited January 2023
    Thanks a lot for those helpful tips! I take good note of it all! Can't wait to do it now :smiley:
  • Good luck @MaxLevL and please let us know how it goes!
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