Best Of
Re: Is it possible to make a mold using plaster, after sculpting in a fiberglass mannequin head?
Hi Carla,
You can do this as long as the mold will be able to pull away from your sculpture without locking. Because the core (fiberglass head) is rigid, there is a possibility of the mold locking around the core if the mold wraps too far around the sides.
This is pretty much the same thing as sculpting on a stone core, and some folks do work on resin or fiberglass cores. You should be fine!
/Chris
You can do this as long as the mold will be able to pull away from your sculpture without locking. Because the core (fiberglass head) is rigid, there is a possibility of the mold locking around the core if the mold wraps too far around the sides.
This is pretty much the same thing as sculpting on a stone core, and some folks do work on resin or fiberglass cores. You should be fine!
/Chris
Re: 3d printed mask
One option is to tint the urethane to get your desired base color and then if you need you can try painting techniques like those listed here: https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/brush-40-paint-urethane-rubber/
/Chris
/Chris
Re: recommendation for best airbrush to use with silicone. and how to clean.
Hi Katja,
What airbrush you go with will depend on a few factors. Budget, type of effect you want (sometimes it's best to have double action, other times you can get away with single action) and if you have a brand preference.
When I airbrush with heavier/thicker materials like silicone I like to use my Paasche H airbrush. It's external mix, so it's very easy to clean. Only down side it's it's single action, so you don't have independent control of air and paint flow while painting. You can, however, adjust the paint flow by turning the nozzle and I use a small regulator on my hose where it attaches to my brush so I can also adjust air flow while painting. I love the Paasche H as a "workhorse" airbrush. It's great fo many jobs, just not super fine detail.
When cleaning your airbrush you typically want to use a solvent that matches the material you were running through the brush. Mineral spirits, Naphthalene (AKA Naptha), etc. Smooth-On makes a friendlier solvent for silicone called NOVOCS that works as well.
Hope that helps!
/Chris
What airbrush you go with will depend on a few factors. Budget, type of effect you want (sometimes it's best to have double action, other times you can get away with single action) and if you have a brand preference.
When I airbrush with heavier/thicker materials like silicone I like to use my Paasche H airbrush. It's external mix, so it's very easy to clean. Only down side it's it's single action, so you don't have independent control of air and paint flow while painting. You can, however, adjust the paint flow by turning the nozzle and I use a small regulator on my hose where it attaches to my brush so I can also adjust air flow while painting. I love the Paasche H as a "workhorse" airbrush. It's great fo many jobs, just not super fine detail.
When cleaning your airbrush you typically want to use a solvent that matches the material you were running through the brush. Mineral spirits, Naphthalene (AKA Naptha), etc. Smooth-On makes a friendlier solvent for silicone called NOVOCS that works as well.
Hope that helps!
/Chris
Re: Latex
Hey Rose, there's a wonderful tutorial from Ed at Distortions Unlimited on YouTube about a 3 part blend of water, casting latex and indoor latex house paint for base painting that is easily sprayable with your spraygun, or can be brushed/sponged on. Once dry, it's tough as nails, won't crack, and leaves your detail layer completely intact.
The one pint "tester" size interior latex paints you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's will be enough to do a HUGE job once blended with the other components, and their color swatches let you zero in on your base color with no guesswork.
Once your opaque base is down and cured, I've had great results with various inks and acrylic paints applied in thin washes, or using an airbrush as Chris mentioned. The base itself seems to be where cracking becomes an issue, and Ed's mix solves it beautifully. Here's the link:
The whole DU "Monster Lab" series is fantastic, and a great companion to the many mask making and painting techniques shown on SWSCA's site.
Good luck!
Todd
The one pint "tester" size interior latex paints you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's will be enough to do a HUGE job once blended with the other components, and their color swatches let you zero in on your base color with no guesswork.
Once your opaque base is down and cured, I've had great results with various inks and acrylic paints applied in thin washes, or using an airbrush as Chris mentioned. The base itself seems to be where cracking becomes an issue, and Ed's mix solves it beautifully. Here's the link:
The whole DU "Monster Lab" series is fantastic, and a great companion to the many mask making and painting techniques shown on SWSCA's site.
Good luck!
Todd
Re: What would you like to learn from the Stan Winston School?
I would love a tutorial on mechanical masks. In particular a mechanical ape mask. More of an old-school cable and pulley type not so much the newer servo style. Btw, SWSCA has been a total game changer for me -Thanks!
Re: Latex
The challenge here is that on its own acrylic paint can be rigid, so on a flexible surface it can be prone to crack. One solution is to mix that acrylic with something to make it flexible. In the case of PAX that is done by mixing it with pros-aide.
You can mix liquid latex and acrylic to create your own flexible paint, and then try and seal it with a flexible sealer. Over time anything with latex in it will break down naturally, so keep that in mind.
As far as airbrushing goes, you can add thin layers of airbrushed acrylic without too much concern for cracking, but once there is a full layer of paint you can start to get cracking. Some of the paints by Createx do well on flexible surfaces. And there is a flexible adhesion promoter in Tim Gore's "Bloodline" Createx paints which would help.
/Chris
You can mix liquid latex and acrylic to create your own flexible paint, and then try and seal it with a flexible sealer. Over time anything with latex in it will break down naturally, so keep that in mind.
As far as airbrushing goes, you can add thin layers of airbrushed acrylic without too much concern for cracking, but once there is a full layer of paint you can start to get cracking. Some of the paints by Createx do well on flexible surfaces. And there is a flexible adhesion promoter in Tim Gore's "Bloodline" Createx paints which would help.
/Chris
*** Halloween Costume Contest Winner Announcement ***
Thanks to all of you who entered our 2018 Halloween Costume contest! It continues to be our favorite contest of the year, and once again, you've shocked us with the quality and variety of your costumes.
We are excited to announce that this year's Grand Prize goes to full-time firefighter, part-time monster maker, Jeff Shimek, for his world-class "World of Warcraft" Grommash costume, built by hand in his garage during downtime from his job as a Captain in the Austin, Texas Fire Department.
"I finished this guy late last year," said Jeff. "Several SWSCA videos helped me immensely, not the least of which was Tim Gore's silicone painting. I completed this entire build by myself. It took right at 2 and a half years. I have many build pictures on my FB if you are interested. Happy Halloween!"
Although Jeff has been sculpting and making masks since he was 8-years old, Grommash is his first full-scale costume project, and we couldn't be more impressed with the results, including the sculpting, mold making & casting skills, fabrication, costuming, hair work, and the absolutely colossal variety of painting and finishing techniques it took for him to complete this genuinely badass costume!
All hail Jeff Shimek and Grommash Hellscream, Chieftain of the Warsong Clan! You've won Halloween 2018! (And the awesome Grand Prize pack below).
*Immortal Masks is the leader in Silicone Masks and Custom Creatures created by REAL Hollywood FX Artists! Their Hyper Realistic Silicone Masks are created with their amazing FLEX FUSION SYSTEM to ensure the most durable silicone masks in the industry.
- Team Stan Winston School
Abaddon by Vlad Taupes & Josef Rarach
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/5572/abaddon
Dragon Slayer by Austin Mathews
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/5543/dragon-slayer
Baby Smaug by Courtney Rippstein
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/5371/baby-smaug-costume-contest
Scarecrow Nightmares by Kevin Foutz
We are excited to announce that this year's Grand Prize goes to full-time firefighter, part-time monster maker, Jeff Shimek, for his world-class "World of Warcraft" Grommash costume, built by hand in his garage during downtime from his job as a Captain in the Austin, Texas Fire Department.
"I finished this guy late last year," said Jeff. "Several SWSCA videos helped me immensely, not the least of which was Tim Gore's silicone painting. I completed this entire build by myself. It took right at 2 and a half years. I have many build pictures on my FB if you are interested. Happy Halloween!"
Although Jeff has been sculpting and making masks since he was 8-years old, Grommash is his first full-scale costume project, and we couldn't be more impressed with the results, including the sculpting, mold making & casting skills, fabrication, costuming, hair work, and the absolutely colossal variety of painting and finishing techniques it took for him to complete this genuinely badass costume!
All hail Jeff Shimek and Grommash Hellscream, Chieftain of the Warsong Clan! You've won Halloween 2018! (And the awesome Grand Prize pack below).
Grand Prize Pack: Worth over $700!
- A Silicone "Half Mask" (does not include hair-punched masks) - Sponsored by Immortal Masks* - $375 value!
- Artist Spotlight on the Stan Winston School Blog - PRICELESS
- 1-Year Unlimited Subscription to Stan Winston School - $359.94 value!
*Immortal Masks is the leader in Silicone Masks and Custom Creatures created by REAL Hollywood FX Artists! Their Hyper Realistic Silicone Masks are created with their amazing FLEX FUSION SYSTEM to ensure the most durable silicone masks in the industry.
- Team Stan Winston School
Honorable Mentions:
Abaddon by Vlad Taupes & Josef Rarach
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/5572/abaddon
Dragon Slayer by Austin Mathews
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/5543/dragon-slayer
Baby Smaug by Courtney Rippstein
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/5371/baby-smaug-costume-contest
Scarecrow Nightmares by Kevin Foutz
GROMMASH
I finished this guy late last year. Several SWSOCA videos helped me immensely not the least of which was Tim Gore silicone painting. I completed this entire build by myself. It took right at 2 and a half years. I have many build pictures on my FB if you are interested. Happy Halloween.
