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Protective clear coat questions

Darrell GreenDarrell Green ✭✭✭
edited September 2022 in General
I need a protective clear coat. I sculpted two buckles in plastilina, stone molded them and final cast as two part resin. First coat of paint was a commercial fast dry gold brass( likely acetone or terpentine thinned, jar said nothing). Second coat was an alcohol based stain pen for furniture. Now that both are dry I need a protective matte clear coat. My real hurdle is two part. First, the alcohol stain dried to a near powder and is not fully adhered to the first layer ( needed a wash but did not foresee the bond issue). So I need to clear coat this wash without reactivating the alcohol wash, bonding to both paints and not physically touching the powder ( no brushes). Please help, I am newb to paint and feel free to correct any assumptions I made above.
Post edited by Chris Ellerby on

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    Julien LlopJulien Llop ✭
    Hey Darrel, I'm not sure I understood what's your issue, but wouldn't an acrylic mat clear coating do the trick?
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    Darrell GreenDarrell Green ✭✭✭
    @Julien Llop It very likely might but I am wary of chemical reactions. I need to make sure it doesn't reactivate the stain because it flows away very easily and the color moves when alcohol is present. I am going to do the necessary test piece today, with all the same materials and paint finish, instead of attempting it on my final pieces. I had a few unexpected molding and casting reactions on these same pieces so now am not interested in another restart. 
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    Julien LlopJulien Llop ✭
    @Darrell Green I was assuming you would go for water based acrylic coating but i'm not sure it even exist. Didn't help you much, sorry about that. All the best for your project!
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    Darrell GreenDarrell Green ✭✭✭
    Ya, I totally appreciate the input. I know so little about paints that I am just reaching out for anyone who might have any knowledge on known conflicts with paint types. Thank you. @Julien Llop
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    Chris EllerbyChris Ellerby Admin
    When worried about agitating the surface I would go with an airbrush.  And to prevent reactivating any previous layers I would use an acrylic clear coat in multiple light passes.  I'm a fan of the liquitex varnishes.

    /Chris
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