GTA 5 Space Monkey Mask
I am very new to this, but I have been asked to make the space monkey (Pogo) mask from GTA 5. This will be my first job to do. I have thought about it and figured I would try it. It's my first job in this, so how can I say no. He wants to where it for Halloween this year, plus for selfies. I figured a typical latex mask would work. If it is too loose. I will try to put poly foam in it to help it fit better. I am very excited and am going to get started right now. I could use any help on how to do stuff, so I will probably be asking as I get to them. So far everything I will be using I got from Hobby Lobby. I believe the only thing that won't be coming from Hobby Lobby is the latex.
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If you have any questions during your project I'd be happy to help answer them here.
Best of luck!
/Chris
Find a head-on render of the mask and take a series of measurements like: top of head to bottom of chin, width of head, width/height of eye, spacing between eyes, height of outer edge of eyes from top of head, height of outer edge of eyes from bottom of head, ear location/dimensions, width/height of mouth, nose, etc. Then do the same for the side perspective (and top if you can find it)
You can avoid some math if you are able to scale up and print life sized reference of the mask, otherwise you'll have factor in the scale of your reference.
If you are having trouble finding reference you can hunt down someone with the game and have them use the in-game camera to take some reference shots from the proper perspective. Those shots can then be downloaded online from their profile.
/Chris
It looks a bit narrow, but that could just be an illusion because the ears have not been added yet, or the angle of the photo.
In the head-on photo it looks like the two sides are a little asymmetric, but it could be because the head is slightly turned. Having a set of calipers can be a big help there. Just keep measuring and comparing features on both sides as you build up the forms.
When it comes time to make your molds, you may want to run the cigar as its own piece.
Amazing progress so far!
/Chris
You said, "run the cigar as its own piece". How would you do that? Also, Why do you say I should?
That's just how I would probably do it, but you could run it all as one piece. It also depends on how you want to mold/cast the head. If you want it to be a single piece stone mold to slush cast latex in, the cigar might be a tricky area to fill evenly, and could make demolding a bit difficult.
As for the how, I would keep sculpting with it on the head and remove it prior to molding, leaving a socket for the cast cigar to fit into. Then the cigar could be molded any way you like. But again, that's just how I might do it, make it your own! I know you mentioned time is a factor for you, so molding that piece on its own may not fit into your schedule.
One thing you can do to help keep water based clay from dying out (in addition to putting a bag over it like you have been) is to cover the surface with damp (not soaking wet) paper towels. They help keep air off the surface and keep the humidity up inside the bag.
/Chris
The only thing I noticed is the bigger ear you mentioned. Once the ears are balanced you are set. Your idea of using a string as calipers is great, and should do the trick just fine!
Fantastic job!
/Chris
Starting off, I will us my clay to form around the top of the head, down the sides, to the start of the neck of the bust. With some areas to help support the clay. I am not sure if I want to use Van Aken Plastolina clay for the sides, to have a different color, so I know what is the wall and what is the sculpt. Or if I should just use the Moist Pottery Clay, cause I got plenty of that and its cheaper per pound.
Either way, I will then just use Pottery Plaster on the sculpt. I will be using more water to try to get the plaster in the details. Once the first layer is covered I will put on the second with the usual plaster consistency. Once that layer is down I will then start with the E-Z Form Plaster Cloth Wrap. Doing 3 layers of the wrap to give it strength.
Once that is done, I will flip the sculpt and repeat the plaster part on that side, with some clay to make sure there isn't too much of a mess. Once its tried for a day or 2 I will open it up and hopefully everything went well.
If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to state them.
I'd be careful about adding more water for the details. As long as you don't add too much you should be fine.
I've not tried using plaster bandages in place of hemp/burlap/etc. to strengthen a mold. I usually just use the bandages as a shell on life casts. Let me know how that works out for you!
/Chris
I look forward to seeing your first pulls from the mold!
/Chris
Now, the next thing I need to do is make the latex mask and paint it. Is there something else I could add to it. To keep the latex from drying out and to make it last?
I'm not familiar with any additives that will prolong the life of latex. The only additives I know are to soften it, thicken it, or gel it.
Here is some good info about latex properties, including RD-407 latex: http://www.monstermakers.com/content/materials.html
I would suggest going with the RD-407 latex as mask makers report it lasting a lot longer and being better quality than other latex formulas.
The tips I know to prolong the life of latex masks/props are: Keep them away from direct sunlight, heat, and oils. And keeping the mask on a head form is a good way to prevent it from deforming or creasing.
I have a latex prop I made years ago that got exposed to some oils, and it's slowly turning to goop.
Brushing talc onto the mask will also help absorb moisture and help the mask last longer. I keep my latex nurnies in sealed bags with a bit of talc, and they have lasted for years. They are also not made with higher quality latex like RD-407.
Here's a good discussion with some mask collectors talking about preserving latex masks: http://michael-myers.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=97208&start=0
If you ever find out about any good additives, I'd love to hear about them!
/Chris
Here is some shots of the mask, after I have used scissors on it. I need to get smaller and sharper scissors to get it really fine. After I clean it up a little bit more, I will fix the holes in the cast and then make 2 more masks. I will probably move quicker now, so pictures may come soon.
Some cuticle scissors for the fine trimming will help. And you can sand down the seam lines by hand or with a dremel. Same goes for all the little bumps.
I like to use a dremel with the wire brush attachment for slowly grinding down bumps and seams if I can get away with it. It's not as helpful on castings with a lot of fine textures, but might work for you.
Congrats on the first pull and keep up the great work!
/Chris
One option (if it is a 2 piece mold) would be to leave the mold open, brush in latex, let it dry (or use a hair dryer to speed things up), repeat the process a few times to build up a thick skin, then join the halves later.
Otherwise I would just cast the cigar in a material that does not require air to day. Any kind of 2 part resin or foam should work. (if using expanding foam make sure it has somewhere to escape so you don't ruin the mold)
If you are casting a resin and want to keep it light weight you can hand roto cast it. All you need to do for that is mix up some resin, pour it in the mold, then rote the mold in all directions as the resin cures. This produces a hollow plastic piece. It may take some trial and error to find the right volume of resin to produce a shell thickness you are happy with.
You can also inject a hollow roto cast resin piece with 2 part foam to make it a bit more durable.
/Chris