Question regarding 'the hag' makeup

I wondered if Bruce is using, because he said he uses epoxy cal, XTC 3d coating as a base layer before adding ultracal.
If yes do you just add that and then let it dry completely and then add the ultracal?

Also if you have a mold like this do you then just add vaseline as a release to make an encapsualted appliance?

Answers

  • Chris EllerbyChris Ellerby Los Angeles Admin
    Hi Max,

    You may need to provide a bit more information about your question, as this video series has lots of steps and quite a few different molds.  Citing a specific video/chapter in the series will help us better understand your question.

    It is not uncommon to have a "detail coat" or "print coat" in your mold that is a different material than the rest of the mold.  Often this material is chosen for its durability so you can reproduce sharp details over and over without the mold getting worn down too fast.  XTC 3D is a 2 part self-leveling resin designed for use in 3D printing to fill in print lines and create a smooth surface.  Because of how XTC 3D levels and clings to surfaces it could also be used in mold making as a detail/print coat.  Though there are a number of different resins available with similar properties.

    And yes, you would want your resin to set up before backing it with ultracal. 

    In terms of mold release, it is generally a good idea to use mold release as long as it is compatible with your casting material/process and will not impact detail.  

    /Chris
  • Hi chris

    thank you for your reply 

    yes that’s actually exactly what I’m referring to I also want to do a encapsulated prosthetic but only encapsulated ones. 

    So when j do a mold with xtc and then Ultracal what should I sue as a release when I pour encapsulant and then silicone in for instance when I’m doing a One part glove Mild and I can’t get in there and brush for instance Vaseline in with my fingers or a brush I would need something liquid I could slush.

    and If I have a mold I could reach easily with my fingers or a brush should I just use Vaseline for that.

    i also wondered how you get good edges when you have a mold like for the hunched back because you can’t really scrap of the excess with a spatula... maybe you should do a flashing lien for this ?
    I sculpted the hunched back in water clay so not sure if the xtc releases as good form it as plaster did kn the past..

    i remember Bruce just puts uktracak on and gives the epoxy only a few minutes  to Dry...

    sorry for the many questions... I would greatly appreciate if you could answer some of them 
  • I have a few different mold one made with rebound and a plaster shell.. don’t know I think you release also with Vaseline...
    and two with epoxy and Ultracal everything ends up being encapsulated only that one of the two is hard to reach 
  • Chris EllerbyChris Ellerby Los Angeles Admin
    Vaseline does work as a release, but a spray-on version is ideal.  Even with a brush, it can be difficult to hand apply vaseline thin and even enough to avoid filling in details.  Once again, depending on the materials you choose to run in the mold you may want to use different releases for them.  Those products/manufacturers will often mention what releases they work best with.

    As for the hunch back mold blending edge question.  How you design your sculpt and your mold will determine the type of blending edge you get.  As the artist, that is entirely up to you.

    /Chris
  • Hi

    thabsn for your reply!
    ok but actually they never really mention it... ok I’m assuming for a silicone on encapsulated silicone mold I can use ease release 400 maybe ? 

    And I don’t know for the two plaster molds Vaseline that’s just the three molds I have one made wo rebound two with Ultracal and XTC

    it’s just those two I’m not sure about 

    also the thing is I’m using always encapsulating silicone ! Not raw silicone 

    And yes I’m the past I had no problems with edges because I did flat molds but a hunched back can’t be a flat mold is chlorend it on the back of a armature and the flashing goes around it on the neck along around the hunched back.

    but what I never know with their molds is how much do I have to fill it up and will there just be good edges when I slush it around and have this flashing maybe...


  • Chris EllerbyChris Ellerby Los Angeles Admin
    Ease Release 200 or 400 should work fine.  That said, I always suggest reading the material sheet for any product before using it so you know what to expect.

    /Chris
  • Great, I just had one thing, can I also release my mold for the hunched back with er 400 Then slush a silicone skin if dragon skin fix pro and then when that’s dried can I just cast some flex foam it and slush it around and then let it foam? And should I ten just put the encapsulant a little bit further away of where the silicone and the foam is so I have good edges ?
  • Chris EllerbyChris Ellerby Los Angeles Admin
    It's possible that could work.  Slush casting does not provide a great deal of control over how thickness is built up, but you may be able to use a brush to move things around a bit.  You may want to slush cast/brush in the silicone in small batches so you can build up thickness where you want it while making sure to keep your blending edge nice and thin.

    The foam will also be a bit tricky to control, but you can do that with small batches, slush casting, and brushing. 

    Depending on what encapsulant you use, a bit of extra encapsulant further from the silicone's blending edge should be fine.  The goal would be to trim/dissolve the blending edge down to where you want it after casting is done.

    My main suggestion is to follow our courses as closely as possible the first time you do something.  Any time you change things or add new variables the outcome may be negatively impacted.  There's nothing wrong with experimenting or doing things your own way though, but experimenting is often best after you know the process and materials well enough to take risks and you are ready to address any challenges that may come up as a result.  I totally understand that sometimes you have to change materials and methods based on what's available to you though. At the end of the day, you have to make the best of what you have.  And if things don't turn out the way you want hopefully you learn some things along the way and can try again.  Best of luck!

    /Chris
  • Great thank you yeah i know In the past when. I had batches a little bit too big of silicone for slushing to brushing it just didn’t even put and the silicone kicked just in some area and dried in a big batch on one area...
    but what do you mean with controlling the foam can’t j just slush I were the silicone is won’t it fill everything by itself ?
  • But i didn’t really understand, do you really just do a multi piece application because it’s easier to apply because I bet it’s a thousand times trickier to seperate, mold, cast in different materials and then apply everything so it’s perfect then just a. Mask you may have some issues to glue down but that’s all
  • And I’m sorry I have so many questions but I really appreciate taking your time answering it 
  • Chris EllerbyChris Ellerby Los Angeles Admin
    In relation to your question about controlling the foam, sometimes depending on the mold and part design you'll want more foam in different areas.  If your goal is to fill up an entire cavity then you don't really need the extra control.

    Not sure where your question about a multi-piece application is coming from, I did not mention anything about that.  Are you asking in general why some makeups are multi-piece?

    /Chris
  • yes oh ok so the foam will just fill it up I just have a one piece mold of a hunched back for this. but I can show it once I have made the mkld 👍🏼

    Yes I meant in general ebacsue when people like Brice say why they make a multi piece they say because you have more control and it’s easier to apply but I would way more prefer making a silicone mask when these are the only problems. Or is also movement different Here?

    i actually thought making a mask so making the mold with rebound and then cast encapsulated Platsil gel 00 00 Cause I kinda still want to treat it as a makeup and make everything easier by encapsulating it. Maybe also try to glue it down for better movement
  • Chris EllerbyChris Ellerby Los Angeles Admin
    edited August 2020
    Multi-piece makeups have a number of benefits.  The primary one being for the performer, as it gives them greater ability to emote and perform.  Even the highest quality silicone masks are still somewhat restrictive, as in order to move with the face they need to be tight enough to stay in place.   

    Multi-piece makeups also have the benefit of being able to adapt to different performers (within reason, and depending on a number of other factors) so it is possible to get more use out of molds/castings.

    They are also modular by nature, meaning you can mix and match them to create different characters if needed, re-sculpt or update individual sections of a makeup, or repair part of a damaged makeup application by replacing just the offending piece.

    Those are just a few of the reasons multi-piece makeups are often preferable over masks or full face appliances.  Though there are scenarios in which a mask or full face appliance may be a better option.  

    That said, silicone masks are absolutely amazing and a lot of fun.  If you are interested in making one, go for it!  

    This lesson series covers that process with great detail:  https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-1-epoxy-fiberglass-molding-a-sculpture

    /Chris
  • Great thank you ok I will maybe try among this ale when next but now I’m gonna make a mask :) I hope the negative process also works just with rebound ebacsue I know this process of immortal is the best but not the easiest lol but I did. saw the tutorial live haha 

    whatever thank you so much for the help !
Sign In or Register to comment.