Question regarding 'the hag' makeup
I wondered if Bruce is using, because he said he uses epoxy cal, XTC 3d coating as a base layer before adding ultracal.
If yes do you just add that and then let it dry completely and then add the ultracal?
Also if you have a mold like this do you then just add vaseline as a release to make an encapsualted appliance?
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Answers
You may need to provide a bit more information about your question, as this video series has lots of steps and quite a few different molds. Citing a specific video/chapter in the series will help us better understand your question.
It is not uncommon to have a "detail coat" or "print coat" in your mold that is a different material than the rest of the mold. Often this material is chosen for its durability so you can reproduce sharp details over and over without the mold getting worn down too fast. XTC 3D is a 2 part self-leveling resin designed for use in 3D printing to fill in print lines and create a smooth surface. Because of how XTC 3D levels and clings to surfaces it could also be used in mold making as a detail/print coat. Though there are a number of different resins available with similar properties.
And yes, you would want your resin to set up before backing it with ultracal.
In terms of mold release, it is generally a good idea to use mold release as long as it is compatible with your casting material/process and will not impact detail.
/Chris
thank you for your reply
yes that’s actually exactly what I’m referring to I also want to do a encapsulated prosthetic but only encapsulated ones.
and If I have a mold I could reach easily with my fingers or a brush should I just use Vaseline for that.
i also wondered how you get good edges when you have a mold like for the hunched back because you can’t really scrap of the excess with a spatula... maybe you should do a flashing lien for this ?
I sculpted the hunched back in water clay so not sure if the xtc releases as good form it as plaster did kn the past..
i remember Bruce just puts uktracak on and gives the epoxy only a few minutes to Dry...
sorry for the many questions... I would greatly appreciate if you could answer some of them
and two with epoxy and Ultracal everything ends up being encapsulated only that one of the two is hard to reach
As for the hunch back mold blending edge question. How you design your sculpt and your mold will determine the type of blending edge you get. As the artist, that is entirely up to you.
/Chris
thabsn for your reply!
ok but actually they never really mention it... ok I’m assuming for a silicone on encapsulated silicone mold I can use ease release 400 maybe ?
it’s just those two I’m not sure about
also the thing is I’m using always encapsulating silicone ! Not raw silicone
but what I never know with their molds is how much do I have to fill it up and will there just be good edges when I slush it around and have this flashing maybe...
/Chris
The foam will also be a bit tricky to control, but you can do that with small batches, slush casting, and brushing.
Depending on what encapsulant you use, a bit of extra encapsulant further from the silicone's blending edge should be fine. The goal would be to trim/dissolve the blending edge down to where you want it after casting is done.
My main suggestion is to follow our courses as closely as possible the first time you do something. Any time you change things or add new variables the outcome may be negatively impacted. There's nothing wrong with experimenting or doing things your own way though, but experimenting is often best after you know the process and materials well enough to take risks and you are ready to address any challenges that may come up as a result. I totally understand that sometimes you have to change materials and methods based on what's available to you though. At the end of the day, you have to make the best of what you have. And if things don't turn out the way you want hopefully you learn some things along the way and can try again. Best of luck!
/Chris
but what do you mean with controlling the foam can’t j just slush I were the silicone is won’t it fill everything by itself ?
Not sure where your question about a multi-piece application is coming from, I did not mention anything about that. Are you asking in general why some makeups are multi-piece?
/Chris
i actually thought making a mask so making the mold with rebound and then cast encapsulated Platsil gel 00 00 Cause I kinda still want to treat it as a makeup and make everything easier by encapsulating it. Maybe also try to glue it down for better movement
Multi-piece makeups also have the benefit of being able to adapt to different performers (within reason, and depending on a number of other factors) so it is possible to get more use out of molds/castings.
They are also modular by nature, meaning you can mix and match them to create different characters if needed, re-sculpt or update individual sections of a makeup, or repair part of a damaged makeup application by replacing just the offending piece.
Those are just a few of the reasons multi-piece makeups are often preferable over masks or full face appliances. Though there are scenarios in which a mask or full face appliance may be a better option.
That said, silicone masks are absolutely amazing and a lot of fun. If you are interested in making one, go for it!
This lesson series covers that process with great detail: https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-1-epoxy-fiberglass-molding-a-sculpture
/Chris
whatever thank you so much for the help !