Will you go over painting on Saturday? I have been painting my foam latex with strained oil paint/99% IPA with air brush and then covering in BJB sc-92 which is a flexible elastomer paint or something like that. I got these instructions from "special makeup effects for stage and screen" which is my favorite book so far.
For anyone else reading this: You have to buy this book if you want to know how to cast and mold almost anything and work with all the different types of materials. It's the complete "face off" instruction book basically.
The question was: I don't know if the way I've been doing it is the best way. It's difficult to strain the paint so I'm hoping theres a simple way.
Also, I have about 3/4 of a gallon of foam latex base that got pretty thick. Think it's still usable for wet foam? could I dilute with water or ammonia to get it back to the right consistency?
Okay I got a couple. I'm gonna start the wet foam on Wed I think
1.Should I use less gel than normal to get more working time, or is that risky that it won't ever set up?
2. What do you think about using a pvc syringe to lay it, pour it, on the upholstery foam? That's what I have used for laying it into molds.
3. Do you think pax-acrylic-sealed with glossy acrylic, or rubber cement paint is going to be better paint? What lasts longer?
4. Does the top part of the oven get hotter than the rest? Should I rotate it halfway through?
5. Should I mix the universal tints with latex and water to spray on my armor parts, or arylic-latex-water? I think maybe the tints are oil and won't mix with the other parts.
Thanks Ted. The reason I use the syringe is because I've had trouble with bubbles in my molds. I'm not good at pouring I guess
I do paint a layer in first though.