Finished applying 1 set of the flat mold appliances, and overall was impressed with how easy they applied. edges went down well, although I probably could have had a smaller area of flashing. The alcohol colors I applied a little too liberally, I think it took off some of the cap plastic (5th image down in series). Once I tried to apply the foundation, however, is when things started to show. The edge that disappeared when off showed up again when the foundation covered it all. Certain angles are worse than others, straight on it looks pretty good. The very last image I just wanted to retouch to see how it looked with a little photoshop. I think the biggest thing I would charge is to have a lifecast, as these aren't all that symmetrical in how the peak tapered down. The right side is sharper than the left. I have one more set to apply of a snake skin texture, but I don't think I can get my model until next week. Looking forward to hearing improvement ideas. Thanks
thanks for the comments - I use a Canon 60D camera with a 100mm 2.8 macro lens. I got it for dental photos and video where I need to get close to the surgical area but not getting in the clinicians way, and for the tiny parts we have. It works great as a portrait lens as well. I am pretty sure it is what SWSCA uses on their cameras as well for close up videos.
The needles I use to make the tools were AcuTek acupuncture needles (.3 and .18mm) - for the pore tool I just heated up the needle and folded it to give me an oblong skin pore that was tinier than most pore tools. My model had decent size pores, so I went a little heavier to match, although I would like to have knocked it down a bit to not stand out as much. I think I am going to try to do a lifecast of the model and do a conforming transfer mold like in Neill's series next; it will allow better symmetry in the early stages, which is critical for this kind of makeup. The tough part is my models are claustrophobic, which is why I had an easy time in convincing them to participate!
I tried using Temptu's S/B silicone airbrush foundation, but it kept clogging in my Iwata Revolution CR. Having no experience with the foundation was rough. I thinned it with 244 fluid, but it still was too thick to go through. The model used her regular foundation, which I think went on a little "cakey". I was hoping the silicone would work better, need to play around with it a bit to see what works best. I may try it through the larger needle on my Paasche H, but if you have any experience with beauty airbrush makeup I am all ears.
Thanks Chris and Collier, I am sure that when you apply these yourselves, you will see how quick and easy they go on. Like opening presents on Xmas day! Pre-matching the models skin tone with pre-colored silicone swatches definitely helped since my supplies are in a different city, and photos don't give a true match for reference.
I use the Temptu S/B Silicone foundations often for brides etc. I use the Iwata Eclipse but I use a .35mm needle. I find I have to keep a sponge with alcohol to wipe the tip frequently, but I've never tried thinning it out with 244 fluid, so I can't comment on that. The funny thing with Temptu Silicone Make Up is that It looks really fine UNTIL it dries. Then it gets really chalky if you over do it. I tend to use super fine mists of colour, then spray to dry it. Then add more If I need. But there is a really fine line between "can't see it" and "that's really heavy". Maybe try less next time and see how you go. Personally I love the finish, but I confess... I'm usually doing this on Brides and not on appliances.
This is just my experience though. I have also used silicone lubricant to thin it out. Pjur Woman works well. ONE drop only though and being a personal lubricant, it is skin safe.
Can't wait to see more.