Homework - Tom Stewart

Hey guys, so I'm doing a Lumberjack type character- he has no mouth, just his moustache moves when he talks. I tried the second mech BJ showed and found that the mech is pretty good, however, it is more of an interior movement with springs etc. on the side I need facing in. I decided to go with the first mech but I needed to modify it so that the moustache is centred and not spaced very far. So here is what I came up with. This was suppose to be just a test piece but it actually came out pretty goo, so I may use it for the actual build. I angled the front to match the angle of the front of the puppet. I also need to propoxy the area where the nylon fishing line is attached. I also need to affix the tubing in to front plate because there is some give in the left "pulley". I used one piece for the stopper and just need to attach that too. Also need to make the moustache pieces and attach those onto the collars. Video will follow.

Here's the Mech from behind. Like I said sorry for it being rough but it was originally going to be used just as a test run. Also have to put rubber on the stoppers to reduce noise...so much to do! LOL

This will be my third attempt to post on here...this is a mock up for the mustache mech for a Lumberjack character. My thought was to use the second mech BJ showed in his video... but after starting the mech I realized that the first one lends itself more for what I need.
Here are some photos of the second mech...

So now I'm building the first mech BJ showed, but changed it to fit the design of the Lumber Jack. Here is the mock up version. I need to put Propoxy on the "wings" to stop the fishing line to stop sliding. I also need to fasten the stoppers better and add rubber tubing because you can hear when the brass hits them. I also thought of having separate eye screws for each spring but found they clear eachother pretty smoothly. I also decided I may just keep the mock up - I know it isn't pretty but it works smoothly. I also decided to make the brass curve a different way to clear the foam inside the head.  

Here are both mechs done the Moustache mech is the first mech you showed us for eyebrows. The second is Mech 2 for wings etc. 

Alright so here is my final homework submission...
I completed three mechs- which you will see in the videos. Sorry for the sound quality when I puppeteered at the end- not mic'd but still wanted to show you how the mustache moves- I will be adding more fur to the Lumber Jack later though.

The second video shows me testing the mechs mid way through the build.

The third video is of the Lumber Jack Test- his beard is still floppy and needs to be sewn down. Wanted to see how he moved and if any adjustments need to be made to the Mustache.

Here are some of pictures of the Mustache Mech and some of the problems I encountered.

This is a Picture of the shaving of foam I did so the Mustache didn't run into the jaw portion or get caught in the beard. Because I shaved down the foam I glued in L200 at the jaw to strengthen it from the inside. Sorry the picture I had for that was blurry.
The next Picture is of Head and the body before adding the beard and mustache

This picture is of the modified eye brow mech/mustache mech before it goes into the head of the Lumber Jack. I added L200 so my hand comfortably cups the top so my thumb has a natural pull on the trigger. I added wooded stoppers at the side so the mech itself doesn't spin backwards or (as I found) was locking into position. I topped these stoppers off with leather to reduce the sound.

I've included some of the characters movement on the video. Next mech I built was the mech for wings of Dog Muzzle/Mustache. This is also included in the video. The last mech I made was the BJ Guyer Bobber Blink. I will add the photos and then describe  some things I changed in the design.

The first thing I ran into was that the ping pong balls were different sizes- I compared some and chose the two that were a bit smaller so the lid could glide past the pupil I put on later. I shaved down the sides a bit as I used thicker wood and knew I wouldn't have the clearance when the lid came forward. It worked out according to plan. You will see this in the second photo below of the inside side sanded down. 
In the third photo you will notice that the bar across the back of the lid is higher- I sanded down a bigger notch so that the blink would get additional movement. The additional space allows for the blink to be more forward, thus creating a full closed blink. Pictures 4 and 5 show the before and after. The blink runs really really smooth and I can get a very fast flick and even a slower movement. One thing I also noticed was that when you screw the "stabilizing" screws in the bottom of the eye so the ping pong balls don't move- this creates the ping pong ball to squish a bit and could be problematic do to space needed to fit the eyes. Because I shaved a bit off the sides as previously mentioned it wasn't a problem. 
I also went to my local hobby remote plane store and they ran out of the plastic connectors to fasten the tubing- I gaffer taped it down temporarily until they get their shipment in and I am able to pick them up. 
Also placement of the return spring is not on the middle bracing because after playing around with it I found the smoothest motion it did was when the spring was attached to a eye screw in the back. Again, it runs very smooth and I couldn't thank you enough for the knowledge you have given. Thanks for everything BJ and the folks at SWSCA!

Just two more things...
On the Bobber mech I didn't put Propoxy on the tops of the bobbers because whenever I decide to put them in a puppet the top of the lids will be covered and not seen.
Also, I usually would secure the spring and eye screws with 5 minute epoxy but forgot to buy some last night. Will do that tonight though.
Post edited by Yukako Shimada on
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