Hey everyone, Here is my homework for the first mech we worked on with Bj: "The EyeBrow mech": Have to adjust the symmetry, going to work on the other mechs later tonight.
Enjoy the pictures/videos, please ask any questions, if any.
Alright so here is my final homework submission... I completed three mechs- which you will see in the videos. Sorry for the sound quality when I puppeteered at the end- not mic'd but still wanted to show you how the mustache moves- I will be adding more fur to the Lumber Jack later though. https://youtu.be/WAVxaZsVvVI
The third video is of the Lumber Jack Test- his beard is still floppy and needs to be sewn down. Wanted to see how he moved and if any adjustments need to be made to the Mustache. https://youtu.be/kC-_wvwIDVg
Here are some of pictures of the Mustache Mech and some of the problems I encountered.
This is a Picture of the shaving of foam I did so the Mustache didn't run into the jaw portion or get caught in the beard. Because I shaved down the foam I glued in L200 at the jaw to strengthen it from the inside. Sorry the picture I had for that was blurry. The next Picture is of Head and the body before adding the beard and mustache This picture is of the modified eye brow mech/mustache mech before it goes into the head of the Lumber Jack. I added L200 so my hand comfortably cups the top so my thumb has a natural pull on the trigger. I added wooded stoppers at the side so the mech itself doesn't spin backwards or (as I found) was locking into position. I topped these stoppers off with leather to reduce the sound. I've included some of the characters movement on the video. Next mech I built was the mech for wings of Dog Muzzle/Mustache. This is also included in the video. The last mech I made was the BJ Guyer Bobber Blink. I will add the photos and then describe some things I changed in the design.
The first thing I ran into was that the ping pong balls were different sizes- I compared some and chose the two that were a bit smaller so the lid could glide past the pupil I put on later. I shaved down the sides a bit as I used thicker wood and knew I wouldn't have the clearance when the lid came forward. It worked out according to plan. You will see this in the second photo below of the inside side sanded down. In the third photo you will notice that the bar across the back of the lid is higher- I sanded down a bigger notch so that the blink would get additional movement. The additional space allows for the blink to be more forward, thus creating a full closed blink. Pictures 4 and 5 show the before and after. The blink runs really really smooth and I can get a very fast flick and even a slower movement. One thing I also noticed was that when you screw the "stabilizing" screws in the bottom of the eye so the ping pong balls don't move- this creates the ping pong ball to squish a bit and could be problematic do to space needed to fit the eyes. Because I shaved a bit off the sides as previously mentioned it wasn't a problem. I also went to my local hobby remote plane store and they ran out of the plastic connectors to fasten the tubing- I gaffer taped it down temporarily until they get their shipment in and I am able to pick them up. Also placement of the return spring is not on the middle bracing because after playing around with it I found the smoothest motion it did was when the spring was attached to a eye screw in the back. Again, it runs very smooth and I couldn't thank you enough for the knowledge you have given. Thanks for everything BJ and the folks at SWSCA!
Just two more things... On the Bobber mech I didn't put Propoxy on the tops of the bobbers because whenever I decide to put them in a puppet the top of the lids will be covered and not seen. Also, I usually would secure the spring and eye screws with 5 minute epoxy but forgot to buy some last night. Will do that tonight though.
Comments
Here is the pattern for eye blink base from BJ.
Here is my homework for the first mech we worked on with Bj: "The EyeBrow mech":
Have to adjust the symmetry, going to work on the other mechs later tonight.
Enjoy the pictures/videos, please ask any questions, if any.
Best,
Connor Asher
Video Link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTdmJsEwAUs
/Chris
I completed three mechs- which you will see in the videos. Sorry for the sound quality when I puppeteered at the end- not mic'd but still wanted to show you how the mustache moves- I will be adding more fur to the Lumber Jack later though.
The second video shows me testing the mechs mid way through the build.
The third video is of the Lumber Jack Test- his beard is still floppy and needs to be sewn down. Wanted to see how he moved and if any adjustments need to be made to the Mustache.
Here are some of pictures of the Mustache Mech and some of the problems I encountered.
This is a Picture of the shaving of foam I did so the Mustache didn't run into the jaw portion or get caught in the beard. Because I shaved down the foam I glued in L200 at the jaw to strengthen it from the inside. Sorry the picture I had for that was blurry.
This picture is of the modified eye brow mech/mustache mech before it goes into the head of the Lumber Jack. I added L200 so my hand comfortably cups the top so my thumb has a natural pull on the trigger. I added wooded stoppers at the side so the mech itself doesn't spin backwards or (as I found) was locking into position. I topped these stoppers off with leather to reduce the sound.
I've included some of the characters movement on the video. Next mech I built was the mech for wings of Dog Muzzle/Mustache. This is also included in the video. The last mech I made was the BJ Guyer Bobber Blink. I will add the photos and then describe some things I changed in the design.
The first thing I ran into was that the ping pong balls were different sizes- I compared some and chose the two that were a bit smaller so the lid could glide past the pupil I put on later. I shaved down the sides a bit as I used thicker wood and knew I wouldn't have the clearance when the lid came forward. It worked out according to plan. You will see this in the second photo below of the inside side sanded down.
In the third photo you will notice that the bar across the back of the lid is higher- I sanded down a bigger notch so that the blink would get additional movement. The additional space allows for the blink to be more forward, thus creating a full closed blink. Pictures 4 and 5 show the before and after. The blink runs really really smooth and I can get a very fast flick and even a slower movement. One thing I also noticed was that when you screw the "stabilizing" screws in the bottom of the eye so the ping pong balls don't move- this creates the ping pong ball to squish a bit and could be problematic do to space needed to fit the eyes. Because I shaved a bit off the sides as previously mentioned it wasn't a problem.
I also went to my local hobby remote plane store and they ran out of the plastic connectors to fasten the tubing- I gaffer taped it down temporarily until they get their shipment in and I am able to pick them up.
Also placement of the return spring is not on the middle bracing because after playing around with it I found the smoothest motion it did was when the spring was attached to a eye screw in the back. Again, it runs very smooth and I couldn't thank you enough for the knowledge you have given. Thanks for everything BJ and the folks at SWSCA!
On the Bobber mech I didn't put Propoxy on the tops of the bobbers because whenever I decide to put them in a puppet the top of the lids will be covered and not seen.
Also, I usually would secure the spring and eye screws with 5 minute epoxy but forgot to buy some last night. Will do that tonight though.