How can I make a latex mask mold using a 3d print?

Sworthen20
Sworthen20 ✭
in How To Make A Latex Rubber Mask Part 2
Hey so I’m new to mask making and I do 3d modeling with my buddies and I want to make a mask from a movie I saw recently and my buddy did a model for me and I wanted to print it and make it into a latex mask. Is there any method I can use to get a successful result?

 I know I will have to sand the piece until it is seamless that’s not the issue. I just don’t know if I should use the hydrocal method since the 3d object is solid but I figured I could heat it up and pull it out that way and I could have a good negative. 

if anyone has a better way or has tried this please let me know I’d greatly appreciate it!

Comments

  • StaggzCosplay
    StaggzCosplay ✭
    It may be a lot of work, but if it were me personally, I would make a silicone “trash” mold with a shell around it and then melt down monsterclay and pour it in the mold, then do your stone mold over that. Others may have a better method but that’s how I’d tackle it. 
  • Alexander H
    Alexander H ✭✭✭
    This is a process I need to start thinking about too. I'm a 3D sculptor, and as enjoyable as working with clay can be (and while I do need to develop my traditional sculpting skills), my best sculpting work is done digitally. 

    At the moment I can't be much help except for playing the devil's advocate. I definitely wouldn't suggest melting the plastic down. First and foremost - horrible fumes. Even if you work with one of the least toxic filaments, such as PLA, heating it up is still gonna release a lotta nasties into the air. It's bad enough melting a small patch (like with a soldering iron), but to heat up a whole mask so it's flexible to take out of a mold would be pretty icky. Additionally, the amount of constant heat you would need to warp/melt the plastic could end up dehydrating the plaster/stone too quickly and cracking it.

    I thought about if flexible filament was used (flexible PLA, TPU, etc.) so it could bend and flex when coming out of a mold, but because of the softer materialistic properties, it's harder to get the same print quality as with standard firm filament, and you can't use the same materials (ie. body filler or filler primer) to patch flaws, as if the filament bends, these could easily crack and fall off.

    I wonder if there's a way to print the mold itself (either FDM or SLA for higher quality) in a material that can absorb the moisture so latex can cure, or cast a material into that printed mold that can still be easily removed, then create the plaster/stone mold from that cast. Perhaps an expanding foam with good skinning ability to retain surface detail?
  • Chris Ellerby
    Chris Ellerby Admin
    One option is to 3D print the mold, rather than 3d printing the part.   From there you can cast up a clay copy by melting clay like Monster Clay and pouring it into your mold.  Just make sure it's not hot enough to deform your print.   Pouring in a small amount and rotating the mold around to cover all surfaces is one way to prevent too much heat from building up.  Then you can repeat that process to build up more thickness and eventually fill it all the way up.  You can also chill the mold in a freezer to firm up the clay and help with demolding.

    With a clay casting, you can then clean up print lines, add detail, etc.   Then mold and cast using any materials you like.

    /Chris

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