Best Of
Vespout Biker Girl Bust
Hello and Happy New Year to everyone!
I've been missing from this forum for quite a bit of time, however I haven't stopped sculpting.
This is my latest piece, I impulsivelly bought a motorcycle helmet even though I don't own a bike. Because of this, I had to find an excuse for the money spent, so I made one up.
I designed and 3d modeled this cute pouting stilized biker girl, just to make a bust and put the helmet on her head!
Modeled in Zbrush, and 3d printed in PLA, then, sanded, primed, filled, sanded, primed and painted by hand, (no shortcuts there).
The Helmet came with different accesories, so I can choose how to dress it up.
I've been missing from this forum for quite a bit of time, however I haven't stopped sculpting.
This is my latest piece, I impulsivelly bought a motorcycle helmet even though I don't own a bike. Because of this, I had to find an excuse for the money spent, so I made one up.
I designed and 3d modeled this cute pouting stilized biker girl, just to make a bust and put the helmet on her head!
Modeled in Zbrush, and 3d printed in PLA, then, sanded, primed, filled, sanded, primed and painted by hand, (no shortcuts there).
The Helmet came with different accesories, so I can choose how to dress it up.
A couple of process pics:
And the full 3d model from where I then printed the head:
Re: Vespout Biker Girl Bust
Happy New Year! I’m pretty new here, but this really caught my eye. Really inspiring to see a project come together like that from a simple idea.
gardyloo
1
Re: Head sculpting pole ?
For the pipe, you can use pretty much anything from the hardware store that matches the size you want to sculpt at. You can get short pre-threaded lengths of pipe as well as a threaded flange that can screw/bolt to a base.
For colder climates, Monster Clay Soft may be a bit easier to work with than regular or hard Monster Clay, but it will still require heat to soften. WED clay will remain soft as long as it is properly hydrated, but requires more upkeep.
My advice would be to get small amounts of different clays and see what you like the most, then buy a larger amount for your bigger sculptures.
/Chris
For colder climates, Monster Clay Soft may be a bit easier to work with than regular or hard Monster Clay, but it will still require heat to soften. WED clay will remain soft as long as it is properly hydrated, but requires more upkeep.
My advice would be to get small amounts of different clays and see what you like the most, then buy a larger amount for your bigger sculptures.
/Chris
Re: Rudolph the Rednose Reindeer, murder scene
I believe you have witnessed a crime sir. 
/Chris
/Chris
Re: Denethor Impersonation Cosplay Costume, John Noble Impersonation Cosplay Costume
in progress:..... sadly this one ran 14 full pages of costume build, props, hair and etcetera galore and I just can't get myself to copy all 14 pages over so here is the link to the build thread and I apologize but the ads that show up over there are pretty bad so be aware:
https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/denethor-john-noble-impersonation-cosplay-costume-lord-of-the-rings-return-of-the-king.364266/
https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/denethor-john-noble-impersonation-cosplay-costume-lord-of-the-rings-return-of-the-king.364266/
Re: Plastic Forms around Anamatronics ?
Darrell Green said:In the two pictures, the plastic is acting as skeletal structure to be seen by the camera as a shape clearly showing even when covered in fur or skin. Areas not covered are considered baggy and without form. I am referring to the white flat plastic (looks like plastic milk jug). The same can be said for the yellow in the helmet picture (yellow plastics). Forms that need to show as solid skeleton and not allow a change of shape.
The animatronics are built in such a way as to create the movement but are often not bulky enough to fill out and hold the full shape of the creature. These areas of plastic hold the cover, whether fur or skin, to a specific shape while still allowing the animatronic room to move. They also hold the fur or skin away from internal moving parts that would pinch or snag on the cover fur.
I hope I understood that correct. If there are specific areas on one of the skulls that you want to reference, please use an editing tool to add arrows to point.
I am having difficulties loading pictures to the forum so cannot add my own arrows.
Areas which represent bones and maybe even muscle that is hard, like a skull or a leg is going to have some plastic of sorts for the animatronics. And anywhere where there is loose fat, tissue or once again maybe even muscle you don't have any plastic areas as to show where fat etc exists.
In other words, you use the plastic not to completely cover up the animatronics mechanics but only certain areas. While allowing the animatronics to move freely but also have your character move or creature as it should with flesh, fat etc.
I guess this takes alot of experimenting if you are new to doing this, you might place plastic around areas of the mechanics that cause it to not to move well or the character doesn't move as you want it too cause you placed plastic in the wrong areas. 
Re: Digitigrade stilt feet questions
Thanks Chris! I actually found horse hoof boots meant for protecting damaged hooves made out of very sturdy rubber which were the perfect size and shape for the stilts, I bolted them to the steel and filled it in with urethane rubber and they have been very stable and easy to maneuver in.
Re: Digitigrade stilt feet questions
To my knowledge, there are not many off-the-shelf parts specifically made for digitigrade stilts. There are companies that make/sell full stilts, often with some customization for fit.
If you are looking to make your own, it's advisable, for safety reasons, to use reliable, sturdy, and durable materials. This generally requires working with metal. With stilts, it's easy to cause serious harm to yourself if any one piece fails.
I just did a quick google search and found a company offering a few stilt options, as well as replacement feet: https://digilegs.com/product/digileg-stilts/
Here is an instructables on digitigrade stitls:
https://www.instructables.com/Werewolf-Stilts-digitigrade-legs/
/Chris
If you are looking to make your own, it's advisable, for safety reasons, to use reliable, sturdy, and durable materials. This generally requires working with metal. With stilts, it's easy to cause serious harm to yourself if any one piece fails.
I just did a quick google search and found a company offering a few stilt options, as well as replacement feet: https://digilegs.com/product/digileg-stilts/
Here is an instructables on digitigrade stitls:
https://www.instructables.com/Werewolf-Stilts-digitigrade-legs/
/Chris
Re: Wooden Turntable
I hope to have found one, it was pricey but hopefully will work, when I get I will update. It's designed for sculpting and can handle up to 750 Ibs as a turn table / lazy Susan. I suppose it's good for a beginning it leaves room for abuse.
Re: Wooden Turntable
You can find the bearings by searching for "lazy susan bearing" or "turntable bearing." Then, screw/bolt them to some scrap wood or a wood cutting board. Otherwise, you can find fully made lazy susans that may work for you.
/Chris
/Chris