Best Of
demon Slaanesh special prosthetic suit
Hello! My name is Natasha, I am a plastic make-up artist, sculptor and molder. This is our special prosthetic suit demon Slaanesh. My sculpture, painting by my colleague Daria. We are waiting for a cosplayer to try on.
Re: Stop motion raven
They do sell balck goose feathers in Amazon, you could try there. hope this helps
Re: What's On Your Workbench? (Summer 2025)
I have just wrapped up painting my zombie bust.
Re: Getting younger
I received two varieties of the facelift tape. The first is the conventional tape pad and cord combination that was displayed in Mrs Doubtfire. These allow a minimal tape area near the hairline but require an anchor point on the other end. Some of the cords wrap completely around the head to an opposing tape at the mirror point on rhe other side of the face. These are elastic cords. I believe the originals, from Mrs Doubtfire, were cords that tied and were not elastic.
The second kind is a more recent innovation. These look like bandaids without the cotton center section. Quite genius, really, as they are applied very similar to an adhesive bandaid but include a stretching action required before attaching the second half.
Both can be applied in such a way as to hide them rather well.
Because my hairline is receding and I will be wearing a hat, both versions would be completely hidden. Keep in mind that the above pictures are not intended to look younger but just to introduce and demonstrate the two versions.
In this next picture you can see my intended purpose, the reshaping of the brow to match Ron Swanson from Parks and Recreation (one side only to demo):
But even with this simple demonstration, the lifted brow side displays far fewer wrinkles, bags and shadow lines, putting these products directly in line with our ongoing search for makeup and special effects that make the model younger.
With a combination of both types and the exaggerated use of multiple tapes applied, these could quickly reshape the face in numerous disguises whether conventional or grotesque. A burn scar prosthetic could be greatly enhanced by pulling the area tight like a naturally healing burn scar does. These are cheap and easily removed, lending to their versatility in effects makeup. I plan to apply these wherever I would have been forced to remember to flex facial muscles for a pose. Downturned mouth, tucked back ear, the possibilities just pile up.
The only application caution is to apply to freshly cleaned skin. I used alcohol to prep the tape site and be careful to avoid touching the adhesive with your fingers before application.
The second kind is a more recent innovation. These look like bandaids without the cotton center section. Quite genius, really, as they are applied very similar to an adhesive bandaid but include a stretching action required before attaching the second half.
Both can be applied in such a way as to hide them rather well.
Because my hairline is receding and I will be wearing a hat, both versions would be completely hidden. Keep in mind that the above pictures are not intended to look younger but just to introduce and demonstrate the two versions.
In this next picture you can see my intended purpose, the reshaping of the brow to match Ron Swanson from Parks and Recreation (one side only to demo):
But even with this simple demonstration, the lifted brow side displays far fewer wrinkles, bags and shadow lines, putting these products directly in line with our ongoing search for makeup and special effects that make the model younger.
With a combination of both types and the exaggerated use of multiple tapes applied, these could quickly reshape the face in numerous disguises whether conventional or grotesque. A burn scar prosthetic could be greatly enhanced by pulling the area tight like a naturally healing burn scar does. These are cheap and easily removed, lending to their versatility in effects makeup. I plan to apply these wherever I would have been forced to remember to flex facial muscles for a pose. Downturned mouth, tucked back ear, the possibilities just pile up.
The only application caution is to apply to freshly cleaned skin. I used alcohol to prep the tape site and be careful to avoid touching the adhesive with your fingers before application.
Re: My Bernie Wrightson’s Frankenstein monster mask
Bernie Wrightson’s Frankenstein monster mask and display bust, sculpted in monster clay, molded in ultra-cal and cast in latex with latex paint and acrylic inks. Hand punched synthetic hair.
Tinting Foam Latex
Was curious if any of you used something to tint your foam other then the pre-made paints sold online? also what chemicals are released when baking the foam latex and i realized the the excess that's been left in the bowl has a very unpleasant odor to it the next day, i was curious because i find the science behind it so fascinating.
Thank You,
Thank You,
Re: Recipies
My go-to recipe is Karo light corn syrup for a base, then I add plenty of red food coloring.
To get the red pigment level balanced it's important to note that the mixture will appear darker and more opaque when in a large volume. Since the blood will often be used in small amounts, it's important to pigment it to the right/desired translucency when spread thin. To test this I take either a popsicle stick or plastic spoon and draw a black circle on it with a sharpie. I then dip that into the base mix so I can see how it looks on a light-colored surface (the stick/spoon) a dark surface (the circle) and based on the difference between the two surfaces I can gauge translucency.
This gives me a generic thick and bright red base, which I then use to make variations depending on use.
For darker blood, I add a few drops of green food coloring. Green will darken the red without shifting its hue, whereas adding blue would darken it and shift the hue more to purple. There may be some situations where you want a bit of blue, or yellow, but that's really up to you.
Next, I can thin the blood with water to create flowing/dripping blood as needed. How much water you add will depend on how you want to use the blood. For nice slow drips, you can leave it thick. For spraying or pumping it, you can add more water to really thin it down.
If you thin the blood a lot you may also want to add a bit more food coloring if it starts to look too translucent for your intended use.
At this point, you have mouth-safe blood.
If the blood will be used on the skin, on clothing, props, etc, you may want to add a bit of liquid laundry detergent to it (not a lot) to help prevent/reduce staining. If you add too much detergent, things can foam up if agitated, so use it sparingly.
For permanent blood (like on a prop or set dressing) I use a clear glue base rather than Karo, and don't dilute it with anything. The clear glues often dry nice and shiny, so the blood can look wet for years.
That said, for most of my projects these days I use off-the-shelf blood. I'm a big fan of "My Blood" in their "Three Kings" shade of red. You can find it at some makeup shops, or online through makeup shops.
My absolute favorite is Fleet Street Bloodworks - Drying Blood by PPI. It's a little expensive, but it creates a realistic looking dried blood, which I find I use a lot more often than wet bloods.
Ben Nye makes a great blood pigment powder that you can use as an alternative to food coloring. It's great when you need to mix up many gallons of blood. A little bit of that pigment goes a really long way.
Then you have gel/paste bloods that are good for building up depth.
/Chris
To get the red pigment level balanced it's important to note that the mixture will appear darker and more opaque when in a large volume. Since the blood will often be used in small amounts, it's important to pigment it to the right/desired translucency when spread thin. To test this I take either a popsicle stick or plastic spoon and draw a black circle on it with a sharpie. I then dip that into the base mix so I can see how it looks on a light-colored surface (the stick/spoon) a dark surface (the circle) and based on the difference between the two surfaces I can gauge translucency.
This gives me a generic thick and bright red base, which I then use to make variations depending on use.
For darker blood, I add a few drops of green food coloring. Green will darken the red without shifting its hue, whereas adding blue would darken it and shift the hue more to purple. There may be some situations where you want a bit of blue, or yellow, but that's really up to you.
Next, I can thin the blood with water to create flowing/dripping blood as needed. How much water you add will depend on how you want to use the blood. For nice slow drips, you can leave it thick. For spraying or pumping it, you can add more water to really thin it down.
If you thin the blood a lot you may also want to add a bit more food coloring if it starts to look too translucent for your intended use.
At this point, you have mouth-safe blood.
If the blood will be used on the skin, on clothing, props, etc, you may want to add a bit of liquid laundry detergent to it (not a lot) to help prevent/reduce staining. If you add too much detergent, things can foam up if agitated, so use it sparingly.
For permanent blood (like on a prop or set dressing) I use a clear glue base rather than Karo, and don't dilute it with anything. The clear glues often dry nice and shiny, so the blood can look wet for years.
That said, for most of my projects these days I use off-the-shelf blood. I'm a big fan of "My Blood" in their "Three Kings" shade of red. You can find it at some makeup shops, or online through makeup shops.
My absolute favorite is Fleet Street Bloodworks - Drying Blood by PPI. It's a little expensive, but it creates a realistic looking dried blood, which I find I use a lot more often than wet bloods.
Ben Nye makes a great blood pigment powder that you can use as an alternative to food coloring. It's great when you need to mix up many gallons of blood. A little bit of that pigment goes a really long way.
Then you have gel/paste bloods that are good for building up depth.
/Chris