Question for BJ
Hi BJ
Loving this class - sadly I cant comment live as i cant get google plus to work at all.
Its more of an appropriate question for the finishing class any way.
Im working with Plasterzote alot at the moment for some patterned puppets for a theater show. This works great 80% of the time and the seams line up great - some times they are a bit gappy or dont line up as well as i would like. - do you have any tricks for blending joins in platerzote - or maybe even a filler that would work - i have never tried rosco foam coat but have been told it might work.
here are the puppets to give you a better idea
https://www.facebook.com/JakeLinzeyCreativeThumbs/photos/a.647055005323301.1073741834.634273736601428/920486531313479/?type=1&theater
Thanks- just keep the classes coming they are Awesome
Jake
Loving this class - sadly I cant comment live as i cant get google plus to work at all.
Its more of an appropriate question for the finishing class any way.
Im working with Plasterzote alot at the moment for some patterned puppets for a theater show. This works great 80% of the time and the seams line up great - some times they are a bit gappy or dont line up as well as i would like. - do you have any tricks for blending joins in platerzote - or maybe even a filler that would work - i have never tried rosco foam coat but have been told it might work.
here are the puppets to give you a better idea
https://www.facebook.com/JakeLinzeyCreativeThumbs/photos/a.647055005323301.1073741834.634273736601428/920486531313479/?type=1&theater
Thanks- just keep the classes coming they are Awesome
Jake
0
Comments
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Jake,
unfortunately u was not able to view your pictures on the forum and also am not familiar with plasterzote. I've had a little experience with the rosco coating but find it to be a bit hard and shell like once it dries. The main reason I likecarving foam puppets is because of the flexibility and coating always seem to inhibit that.
BJ0 -
Hi BJ
thanks for getting back to me. This is the stuff (sorry the workshop is a bombsite this week) its kind of a laminated foam. not totally sure what it would be called in the US. its very durable so its great for thin framed bodies and the like - its just not perfect for patterning all the time - as you can probably see. Might try some silicone Calk and see if that works...
Looking forward to part 3 - its an awesome class - annoyingly I cant make anything at the moment as I have about 60 of these animals on my plate.
Jake
1 -
BJ, I really enjoyed the carving series and I am psyched to start a muffin. I had another question though. I am doing a Gonzo replica and I am not sure how to do his mouth plate. I thought he would be a good experiment just for me because he combines carving and fur. I have reticulated foam as a block but I wasn't sure if he would have a rigid mouth plate or a gasket one or if I could work the 3 piece that you taught us previously. Love to get your opinion on this. Thanks again for an amazing series. DereK Thompson0
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I would use a rigid upper plate and a gasket lower plate. I think this would give the most flexibility with the mouth of the puppet.1
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BJ, this past month has been a nightmare as far as finding time to get any of my carving done. I've had several home repair emergencies to attend to, and I've had to scrap the green foam muffin entirely. After numerous tests, it just will not take color properly without becoming crusted and cracking. I'll have to order more white foam from online when I can. In the meantime, I am going to try to turn my hand to the other projects(character and poof ball), and hopefully I will have a more productive time of it... I am hoping by the first of the year, if that is not too long?
0 -
Michael,
sorry to to hear about the difficulties with the green foam.
checking in in to see if you'd had a chance to start on the poof ball puppet. Also a thought, you could cut a muffin out of a yellow poof ball as well rather than tracking down white foam. The poof ball foam works great for the soft puppets
tnanks
bj0
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