Best Of
Re: Feathers application
It could work, though feather boas have a lot of downy feathers, so that level of "fluff" may be a challenge in stop motion. It's possible something like hair spray could stiffen them up so they don't move on their own. You may also be able to strip some of the down.
/Chris
/Chris
Re: Having Issues running silicone appliances from Ultracal 30 and Tc1630 molds
Hi @Reyner Garza - So sorry you're having trouble with your silicone appliances. Our instructor Cory Czekaj likes to use Orchid 67 from Imperial Surface. It's a nice glue to bond Baldiez to Silicone. Link to the page on their website here: https://imperialsurfaceshop.com/special-effects/silicone-adhesive/ Good luck!
Re: New Davy Jones design
This is incredible,. I hope some day I can make something like this

1
Re: Latex mask sculpture into a silicone mask conversion???
Hi James,
Silicone masks are designed quite a bit differently than latex masks to ensure they fit and move properly. You would want the silicone mask to be a snugger fit (compared to latex) so it stretches and conforms to the wearer's head. The types of changes you would have to make depend a lot on the design of your specific sculpt.
We have a great course that covers making silicone masks that provides way more detail than I can here.
Part 1: https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-1-epoxy-fiberglass-molding-a-sculpture
Part 2: https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-2-finishing-the-epoxy-and-fiberglass-mold
Part 3: https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-3-casting-and-demolding
/Chris
Silicone masks are designed quite a bit differently than latex masks to ensure they fit and move properly. You would want the silicone mask to be a snugger fit (compared to latex) so it stretches and conforms to the wearer's head. The types of changes you would have to make depend a lot on the design of your specific sculpt.
We have a great course that covers making silicone masks that provides way more detail than I can here.
Part 1: https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-1-epoxy-fiberglass-molding-a-sculpture
Part 2: https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-2-finishing-the-epoxy-and-fiberglass-mold
Part 3: https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/silicone-mask-making-part-3-casting-and-demolding
/Chris
Re: Latex mask sculpture into a silicone mask conversion???
It is possible to shrink a sculpture, but the process can be expensive, time-consuming, and hard to control. There are casting mediums that shrink based on additives. This page can help a bit: https://www.smooth-on.com/support/faq/155/
For a silicone mask to fit properly it needs to be created at the proper scale on the right core so everything lines up properly. The sculpt needs to be designed based on the core, not the other way around. The sculpt is dependant on the core to control how thick the silicone will be in specific areas, which determines how the mask will fit, stretch, squash, and perform.
Adapting a sculpt designed for a latex mask that was not created on a core designed for a silicone mask is a bit like putting a square peg in a round hole. If you try really hard you might be able to get it to work, but you may be unhappy with the results.
Using a base form that is not intended as a silicone mask core (like the 2 suggestions you listed above) could possibly work out ok(ish), but the resulting maks would not have the fit or performance of a mask created on a core designed for silicone masks.
There really are no rough head dimensions for something like this, since it all depends 100% on your core or lifecast and how snug you want the mask to fit. You can start with a life cast and then shave down or smooth out features to create the right core. Core design for silicone masks, and how they control the fit around the eyes/mouth, is a complex subject that is a bit too difficult to cover in text alone. A good example would be the mouth, as you mentioned. It needs to be sculpted in a slightly open position and the core needs to allow the clay to wrap inside and create that cupping effect, but describing it without a reference core would be difficult.
One option would be to design your own core and then take your existing sculpture and carefully cut it up and re-apply it to the new core while being mindful of how thick the clay is in key areas. This will require a lot of re-sculpting and cleanup, but it's possible.
Sorry I don't have better news for you. I'd love to see how your mask turns out though!
/Chris
For a silicone mask to fit properly it needs to be created at the proper scale on the right core so everything lines up properly. The sculpt needs to be designed based on the core, not the other way around. The sculpt is dependant on the core to control how thick the silicone will be in specific areas, which determines how the mask will fit, stretch, squash, and perform.
Adapting a sculpt designed for a latex mask that was not created on a core designed for a silicone mask is a bit like putting a square peg in a round hole. If you try really hard you might be able to get it to work, but you may be unhappy with the results.
Using a base form that is not intended as a silicone mask core (like the 2 suggestions you listed above) could possibly work out ok(ish), but the resulting maks would not have the fit or performance of a mask created on a core designed for silicone masks.
There really are no rough head dimensions for something like this, since it all depends 100% on your core or lifecast and how snug you want the mask to fit. You can start with a life cast and then shave down or smooth out features to create the right core. Core design for silicone masks, and how they control the fit around the eyes/mouth, is a complex subject that is a bit too difficult to cover in text alone. A good example would be the mouth, as you mentioned. It needs to be sculpted in a slightly open position and the core needs to allow the clay to wrap inside and create that cupping effect, but describing it without a reference core would be difficult.
One option would be to design your own core and then take your existing sculpture and carefully cut it up and re-apply it to the new core while being mindful of how thick the clay is in key areas. This will require a lot of re-sculpting and cleanup, but it's possible.
Sorry I don't have better news for you. I'd love to see how your mask turns out though!
/Chris
Re: Latex mask sculpture into a silicone mask conversion???
I don't know of any off-the-shelf cores for silicone masks. A product like that would be amazing, and I know I'd buy a couple for sure!
Most folks just have to make their own. Getting a good core is also an iterative process, where you'll make adjustments and create new cores as you and other people try on the masks they produce and find out what works and what doesn't. The companies that make silicone masks have all put many years of work and a lot of resources into developing their cores.
/Chris
Most folks just have to make their own. Getting a good core is also an iterative process, where you'll make adjustments and create new cores as you and other people try on the masks they produce and find out what works and what doesn't. The companies that make silicone masks have all put many years of work and a lot of resources into developing their cores.
/Chris
PS4 Marvel's Spider-Man - 2099 White Suit






















- Vytaflex Urethane Rubber
- 3D Printed PETG Master molds
- 4 way stretch pleather
- EVA foam
- Upholstery foam
- Helmet is 3D printed PETG
- The body is hand sewn and patterned using a mannequin
- Lights and housings where made using LED modules and EVA foam. Soldered in parallel
- Certain muscles are created using upolstery foam glued and sewn in place
- All the armor was molded using 3D printed masters. All one part brush on silicone molds using products from Brick In The Yard supply
https://tafkardesign.squarespace.com/
PS4 Marvel's Spider-Man - 2099 White Suit






















- Vytaflex Urethane Rubber
- 3D Printed PETG Master molds
- 4 way stretch pleather
- EVA foam
- Upholstery foam
- Helmet is 3D printed PETG
- The body is hand sewn and patterned using a mannequin
- Lights and housings where made using LED modules and EVA foam. Soldered in parallel
- Certain muscles are created using upholstery foam glued and sewn in place
- All the armor was molded using 3D printed masters. All one part brush on silicone molds using products from Brick In The Yard supply
https://tafkardesign.squarespace.com/
T'Chaka Black Panther from MCU Black Panther 2018
Hello, I started this project the day after Chadwick died. I used information from the muscle suit fabrication course and casting of urethane using silicone molds. The helmet was 3D printed, the sarong was designed and sewn by me (originally printed at Spoonflower). I sculpted the claws using some WED Clay on a plaster mold of my hand. The urethane accessories were super glued on to the final suit after I sewn that. I basically fabricated everything but the undershirt and pants.
My Website can be found here: https://tafkardesign.squarespace.com/
















My Website can be found here: https://tafkardesign.squarespace.com/















