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Young Orangutan

Hello,
I'm Taina, a London based Hair and Makeup artist.
I made Fulang Chang (monkey's name) during my phrosthetics course at Gorton Studios.
Originally I wanted to make the whole body of a prop Orangutan but due to time constraints I ended up settling for a bust.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020761/uploads/editor/5c/b8nm2rkysdbc.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020761/uploads/editor/kb/97ejg29pqrwx.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020761/uploads/editor/5v/iph4vapf20i2.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020761/uploads/editor/ys/bmztaj4qhf1d.jpg

Lou

1

Re: Waxxed thread/fake sinew screen color matching

Really love the attention to detail you are putting into this project! Part of the fun in making something like this is learning about the history/materials/techniques that would go into the real thing, and the stories those can tell. Awesome stuff!

/Chris

Chris Ellerby

1

Waxxed thread/fake sinew screen color matching

This started with me asking the forums about a bear grease replacement and color question for making the Revenant/Dicaprio leather coat. I will paste Chris Ellerby's awesome and highly effectice suggestion here and then follow that with my discovery for coloring the waxxed string/fake sinew to match:
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Look into making a mixture of beeswax and an oil, similar to how beard waxes are made. I'd also look into non-spoiling oils so the costume lasts. You could even mix in natural scents like pine, leather, smoke, to add to the impact of the costume, but I'd be careful to stick to pleasing scents and not go too heavy with them.

Lanolin may also be an optional additive/base.

Then you could mix in oil-friendly pigments to get the color and saturation you are after.

You can run small tests on scrap fabrics to fine-tune your mixture.
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That worked very well, there will be a darker patch of grey brown in the pics below that came from testing. I then found I needed to color my thread as it is identical to the coat color. My string was too bright but is wax so will not accept pens, sprays or similar. I used makeup dry powder cakes and rubbed the powder manually into the string by pressing it down to the cake under my thumb while pulling the string through with the other hand. I finished by rubbing and dragging the string through my fingertips.

Final color of seriously weathered grey brown of leather and cordage above are getting very close to this inspiration photo from the movie:

Darrell Green

1

Re: Bondo transfers- dehydrating

Hi Tyson, We passed along your question to Brad Look and you'll find his guidance below.
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Dear Tyson,
I received your question concerning issues with dehydration of bondo appliances and the trouble of air bubbles.

You didn't mention specifically what type of Bondo you're using -- so here are some general observations I can offer. If you are using make-it-yourself Bondo (Pros-Aide combined with Cabosil) -- that process inevitably will trap lots of air bubbles. As an experiment, I used some Bondo made by Frends Beauty Supply, which is made precisely this way. If used straight from the container, it produces such air bubbles that you're experiencing...

However, when I took that same product and spatulate some onto a wax palette, and began working the material back and forth, the process gave the product a smoother texture and helped to eliminate bubbles. Next, I applied the mixture to a piece of transfer plastic (Christien Tinsley's brand). I then applied a thin layer of MEL GEL Prosthetic Cream alongside the Frends product. The sheet was placed in a dehydrator for approximately two and half hours at 125 degrees. Below is a photo of the results. While time didn't permit me to start at a much lower temperature, you can see that any bubbles were significantly micro in size.

While using professional Prosthetic Creams, like Christien Tinsely's Prosthetic Transfer Material (PTM) or MEL GEL, etc., will certainly give you better results, it's still possible to trap air while filling a silicone negative mold. Filling a mold is a careful and methodical process. I generally will spatulate small amounts in to cover the walls of the negative first, then add more until it's filled. Any trapped air will want to rise to the surface as the material is being heated.

In lieu of a dehydrator, some people will simply set their molds in a safe spot where they can dry out for several days. Some people have told me that they set their molds in a window sill while others have mentioned putting them on their car dash on a warm day with the windows up.

I hope this information helps you out. And thank you so much for taking the Stan Winston Character Makeup -- Tabletop Prosthetic Course! I really enjoy helping budding makeup artists. Thank you again, and please let me know if you should have any other questions.

Yours,

Bradley Look

Matt Winston

2

Re: Chavant Clay drying TOO fast

I agree with Chris..definitley go to Monster Clay...you could also try softening the "cracking" Chavant with a heat gun and use a small brush to fill in the cracks with the soft/liquid Chevant

James Shaver

1

Re: Silicone 1/2 mask and mesh??

Appreciate that Chris..just found out i do not need to use the mesh as an entire sock but can cut it into strips to use for reinforsment

James Shaver

1

Re: Creature Cast Neoprene

I've used it. Ended up not liking it. It shrinks up way to much.

SFX Artist Chris Walas used it in many of his online tutorials and initially loved it, but he too stopped using it for the same reason.

Jeffrey Mahon

2

Re: Fiberglass casting in silicone mold

Thanks so much! I’ll be sure to watch it tonight!

John Terebetsky

1

Re: Can Silicone be glued to Styrofoam?

Thank you Chris! Ill recommend Smoothon Sil-poxy then.

Justin Swain

1

Depp impersonation cosplay costume, Captain Jack Sparrow impersonation cosplay costume

This is my build as Johnny Depp as Jack Sparrow. Several years ago. The world is awash with build advice on this one, so I just followed instructions. I sewed the vest from pattern. The pants are brown "scrubs". The belts are cut from light thickness conveyor belt material and adorned with picture frames for buckles. I cut and bent the brass rods for the buckle catch. The boots are my work boots folded over. The shirt I owned. The sash was a found table cloth torn and died with tea stain. The hair was a straight wig that I dread locked and shaped. The bandana was two sewn together, died then tea stained then sun bleached. Facial hair was my own except for the two beard braids of doll hair. I had not yet gained the idea of matching an onscreen pose so these poses were pretty harsh. My wife and my daughter both helped with makeup.

Darrell Green

1