Hi guys. Sorry for the late posting! The uploading photo part takes awhile for me. Also, my baby boy came down with something like the chicken pox and I'm kind of like a zombie right now. Anyway, I've been working on my HW whenever I can. I am up to casting, but my model is away until next week. So I am going to apply it on myself. Hopefully it won't be too off and I can see what my losing battle with gravity will ultimately look like!
Here are my process photos, notes and thoughts. Feel free to comment, leave insight or ask/answer questions.
1. Made a contour map of model's face where the prosthetic will be applied. I used aquaphor (like vaseline) to help stick the saran wrap onto the model's face (as per Neil's suggestion) and it worked really really well. Everything stayed taut.
*Notes: Neil said it makes more sense to get the right model from the start. I think I chose possibly the worst model for this. My model is in her 20s and had absolutely no wrinkles except the smile crease at the corners of her lips. She showed me a photo of her mom in her 40s and she looked like she was in her 30s. For a film, I think I would've just done a stretch and stipple all over to age her 10+ years. This was super challenging...and I think I spent more time researching and looking up reference photos than I did sculpting...
2. Transfer saran wrap onto an acrylic board and trace the prosthetic "contour map"
Notes: The Aquaphor really helped stick this on as well. I stick the saran wrap on another board and board the sculpting acrylic board on top. I eventually added in rough markers for the eyes, nose and lips. This is my first time and I had lots of trouble visualizing the sculpture just by itself, because I realized I wasn't going to sculpt in any wrinkles. After my research, to age an Asian woman 10 years, I would just have to emphasize the sagging of the fat on her face from gravity. The skin itself would be quite taut and pore texture wasn't as visible...just a few on the cheeks.
3. Sculpt appliance on acrylic board
*Notes: Sketching rough markers of the face really helped me visualize the piece. It was hard to just sculpt the sagging skin with no wrinkles. I have the eye bag, but I'm worried that even that is a bit too pronounced. The entire time I kept imagining the face relief etched on a coin. The thickest part of the piece is 3-4 millimeters. You can see from the side view it's not thick at all. It also helped using an overhead light to check my shadows when I held the board vertically.
*Notes: After I got both sides roughed out, I traced the sculpt onto saran wrap and placed it back on the model's face to check placement. Neill recommended doing this and I would agree, because I found tons of mistakes which I corrected in red. Next, I placed the tracing on top of my sculpt and dotted the corrected placement into the clay and continued sculpting.
4. Prep sculpts for molding
*Notes: I cleaned up my edges and feathered the edges out. I think I spent another 30 minutes with the texture and just started fiddling with it every time I saw something. I did not apply the Kryolan Fixier spray, although I wish I had just to try it out. I had inhibition once from the clay (NSP Chavant Brown color) and the spray would've been a nice insurance policy. However, we had an overrated snow storm here and I didn't get a chance to go out and buy it. I held the acrylic boards up to the light to see how thin the edges were and that helped as well as Neill's finger method. I also like to take black and white photos of the sculpts to check the depth since the color throws me off sometimes. I also added a neck waddle (?). I didn't get to see Neill's neck waddle, but I would love to see a photo of one he has done before. I didn't know how much surface area to cover, so it should be interesting to see how it looks on the model.
5. Make first clay wall
*Notes: I used Van Aken Protolina - Klean Klay Alternative (Soft). I got mine off of Amazon (link below). I really like it as much as the original klean klay. Had no problems with it. The wall went super fast and no inhibition.http://www.amazon.com/Van-Aken-Protolina-Klean-Alternative/dp/B007R5IINM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422686197&sr=8-1&keywords=klean+clay&pebp=1422686218065&peasin=B007R5IINM
I get a bit frustrated because I find pieces of dust/small particles in my sculpture when there was none the day before. Do you guys cover it with plastic wrap/a plastic bag? I think I will start to. It's just really annoying to see it after spending so much time on the surface texture. That white dot in the middle of my cheek sculpt is where I tried to get rid of a particle and made it worse...
Okay that's it for now with the photos; gotta catch some ZzZs. I am up to the casting part, but I'll load the silicone molding photos later. I am using all Smooth-On products, so I'll list in detail what I'm using in case anyone who uses them wants to know. I know lots of East coast people use Smooth-On because they provide great customer service and they're more local; the shipping for silicone kills us! Last time I checked I think I was looking at West coast suppliers and the shipping thwarted that venture, If anyone knows of an East coast supplier with reasonable shipping, then please let me know. I'd like to try out the Platsil- Gel 25.