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Homework - Sarah Adkins

Homework for live workshop student Sarah Adkins

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  • Yes! I finally get to learn and pick a pro's brain! 
  • edited April 15
    I'm moving along in my homework but got stuck on where the drill bit goes through the rod and the U-joint. My issue is that the bit is a #40 but the oversize bit is a #43? The #43 I have is smaller than the #40 so did I just drill the hole sizes wrong on this? Either way the rod can't be removed from the u-joint because I had to use WD-40 to get it in there in the beginning. 

    Anyone else misunderstand this? I sent an email to the team. Other than that it's pretty good so far. 
    Post edited by Sarah Adkins on
  • Cyril WichersCyril Wichers ✭✭
    edited April 11
    40 = 0.098"
    43 = 0.089"
    http://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm

    What I do is drill both holes simultaniously (so everything's in line), using the smaller drillbit. Then tap the hole that you want to have the threads and then use the bigger drilbit to open up the hole that the screw goes through.


    How much force did you use to get the rod in the U-joint? If you pushed it in by hand, you might be able to get it out by clamping the rod in a vise or gripping it with a pair of pliers (maybe wrap a rag or rubber band around it, so you don't damage it) and pulling on the U-joint whilst rotating it back and forth a bit. Otherwise, you could try drilling it out. Or leave it there, if it won't come out anyway ;-)
  • Cyril you are awesome!

    I've been trying to find a chart like this but the ones I found fall short. I'm posting what I have so far. I didn't get the 2-56 button head screws in but in an insane stroke of luck I was able to drive to an industrial supplier about 3 minutes away! The town I currently live in never has the supplies I need. For this project I had to order from at least three suppliers. 

    I've been using my flex shaft to help me cut and sand down edges and it's been very useful for the bit of brass near the shaft. I was able to attach the large collar pretty easy that way. 

    I'm back in business and was able to substitute the 2-56 button heads for socket heads. We'll see how that works. 

    I just have to measure where to put the third servo. The cardboard head you see is my bat head prototype. So far people have been telling me it needs eyes. 

    This project has definitely been very rewarding and flexing those problem solving muscles is great to do again. As far as experience goes I've had much more to do with 3d printing and modeling than I have with physical building for a while now. 

    After this I'm going to have to build the head, cast it in foam and go all in on making the head move. If we can post sketches you can see what I've been working from to block in the main forms. 
  • I got it finished! Not sure why it's a bit jittery. You have to press down on the knobs as you turn them with the servo testers or they act like they're in null mode. I am definitely taking this to the next level of design, sculpting, painting, and fur! This bat head is going down my design pipeline. Thanks everyone for your help and feedback. This has been so much fun and I look forward to taking more classes.
  • Dave VanderWekkeDave VanderWekke New Jersey
    Great job. Love the head. Cool idea.
  • David DeMattiaDavid DeMattia Saint Croix Falls, WI. ✭✭
    Cardboard is one of my favorite prototyping materials! Good job!

  • The cardboard came with an earlier order so I decided to recycle it. It worked out perfect.
  • David DeMattiaDavid DeMattia Saint Croix Falls, WI. ✭✭
    And it's light!
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