Best Of
Re: Horns
This depends a bit on the size, shape, and weight of the horns. Smaller and lighter horns can be glued on, and you can even paint a bit of latex around the base to help seal/blend them in. A glue like E6000 should do the trick.
Heavier horns may require more support, and for that, you can either have a small plate under the mask they attach to, a headband-like plate for both horns, or a full plate over the top of the head on the inside. I would use a couple of small bolts through the plate to lock into each horn (you can set a couple of threaded inserts into each horn) so it can't twist, then hold the plate in place with some adhesive like E6000 if you want it to be more of a permanent addition.
The plate can be thick vacuum-formed plastic, fiberglass, thermoplastic, etc.
If the horns don't match the mask well, as you mentioned it's a mix and match situation, you may be able to use latex and cotton or tissue paper to make a paper mache sculpting material to add small details around the horn. It can be pigmented by mixing in acrylic paints. Then paint/finish as desired.
Hope that helps!
/Chris
Heavier horns may require more support, and for that, you can either have a small plate under the mask they attach to, a headband-like plate for both horns, or a full plate over the top of the head on the inside. I would use a couple of small bolts through the plate to lock into each horn (you can set a couple of threaded inserts into each horn) so it can't twist, then hold the plate in place with some adhesive like E6000 if you want it to be more of a permanent addition.
The plate can be thick vacuum-formed plastic, fiberglass, thermoplastic, etc.
If the horns don't match the mask well, as you mentioned it's a mix and match situation, you may be able to use latex and cotton or tissue paper to make a paper mache sculpting material to add small details around the horn. It can be pigmented by mixing in acrylic paints. Then paint/finish as desired.
Hope that helps!
/Chris
Re: Dragon Skin Help
Here is the official product page for Dragon Skin. Smooth-On is great about providing detailed documentation on all their materials.
https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-10-medium/
Technical sheet: https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/DRAGON_SKIN_SERIES_TB.pdf
While they do not have specific layer times listed for Dragon Skin Medium, they do mention times for Rebound 25: https://www.smooth-on.com/products/rebound-25/
"Let the first coat dry for 60 minutes at room temperature until it becomes “tacky” before adding the next coat. “Tacky” is defined as sticky to the touch, but does not come off onto your gloved finger. Once “tacky”, you are ready to apply the next layer. Tack-time can be reduced with mild heat (hair dryer or heat gun). Repeat until the necessary mold thickness is achieved."
Since they are both platinum cure silicones with roughly the same pot life and cure time you could use the data for Rebound 25 as a starting point.
/Chris
https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-10-medium/
Technical sheet: https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/DRAGON_SKIN_SERIES_TB.pdf
While they do not have specific layer times listed for Dragon Skin Medium, they do mention times for Rebound 25: https://www.smooth-on.com/products/rebound-25/
"Let the first coat dry for 60 minutes at room temperature until it becomes “tacky” before adding the next coat. “Tacky” is defined as sticky to the touch, but does not come off onto your gloved finger. Once “tacky”, you are ready to apply the next layer. Tack-time can be reduced with mild heat (hair dryer or heat gun). Repeat until the necessary mold thickness is achieved."
Since they are both platinum cure silicones with roughly the same pot life and cure time you could use the data for Rebound 25 as a starting point.
/Chris
Re: Dragon Skin Help
Just so you know..in doing layers with the Dragon Skin MEDIUM formula...the wait time between layers is about 30 minutes...and a couple of squirts of ThiVex thickner will make it good and peanut buttery thick to stay vertical if needed
Re: Dragon Skin Help
I am using Dragon Skin medium for my first silicone mold attempt...it has a 20 minute pot life and a 5 hour demold time...i myself am wondring with this how much time one would need BETWEEN layers...???
I opted to go with a slower setting silicone as to not rush myself and get comfortable in the application process...once i become more experienced and proficient in the process i will likely got to a faster setting Dragonskin
I opted to go with a slower setting silicone as to not rush myself and get comfortable in the application process...once i become more experienced and proficient in the process i will likely got to a faster setting Dragonskin
Pumpkinhead bust
Hello, this is my first entry, it's a 1/3 scale bust based on the character pumpkinhead created by Stan Winston Studios.
Re: Class Discussion
Hi James,
Glad you enjoyed the course! Finding older books can be a challenge, especially if they are out of publication. Every so often they can show up on ebay or other used book sites too.
/Chris
Glad you enjoyed the course! Finding older books can be a challenge, especially if they are out of publication. Every so often they can show up on ebay or other used book sites too.
/Chris
Re: Vengeance 2 "interprative" sculpting
Nice! I love the back teeth poking through the side, gives it great depth.
/Chris
/Chris
Re: Class Discussion
Also, for anyone stumped looking for books mentioned in the course, I did manage to find Sculpture Inside and Out by Malvina Hoffman as an online readable version at a site called archive dot org. It is basically a video that is designed to click page by page. "Heads and Tails" is also up there, but I believe it requires a membership to see that one over a certain time limit.
Edit: Gang... she knew Rodin. Nuff sed
Edit: Gang... she knew Rodin. Nuff sed
Re: Class Discussion
Greetings all. I realize this is about 6 years later (insert witty Riff Raff and Time
Warp ref here...).
Just finished parts 1 & 2, all felt informative and still very relevant. My history is a little bass ackward coming from traditional that went digital and is now melding both with resin 3D print and really digging into clay properly now much later in life. Point being that a lot of tooling is figured out and joints can essentially be printed as needed to custom size, etc. -for my intended workflow at any rate. I found many ways for thinking through it all after watching this course and it filled in a shedload of blanks I had.
I'm the Harryhousen, Blaisdell, Don Post, Frazetta nostalgic sort, I need to know because the kid in me is still demanding answers from the 70s.
Thank you Sandy, even years later. Learned tons, especially with book references and the mind aspects to approach, as well as industry insight.
And thank you Matt Winston for keeping the gates open and the torch ever so bright.
Warp ref here...).
Just finished parts 1 & 2, all felt informative and still very relevant. My history is a little bass ackward coming from traditional that went digital and is now melding both with resin 3D print and really digging into clay properly now much later in life. Point being that a lot of tooling is figured out and joints can essentially be printed as needed to custom size, etc. -for my intended workflow at any rate. I found many ways for thinking through it all after watching this course and it filled in a shedload of blanks I had.
I'm the Harryhousen, Blaisdell, Don Post, Frazetta nostalgic sort, I need to know because the kid in me is still demanding answers from the 70s.
Thank you Sandy, even years later. Learned tons, especially with book references and the mind aspects to approach, as well as industry insight.
And thank you Matt Winston for keeping the gates open and the torch ever so bright.
Booberry
Booberry is a crazy clown with a fun side another character i put together for the haunt i work at mask is bought from krisfx and base costume is made by midnight mayhem apparel then i disstressed mask and costume myself 
